When we landed in Kathmandu, we were informed that a transit strike had just begun and that all the passengers were to be bussed to their hotels, escorted by the Tourist Police. We inched our way into the city. Strikers had set up roadblocks at major intersections and were pounding on the sides of the bus and yelling, which the Tourist Police dealt with peacefully and efficiently. Many of the road blocks featured burning tires and whatever else would burn well. The air was very smoky and unpleasant to breathe. But the good news was that the strike would be over that evening!

The next day, the strike was still going strong. We decided it was safe enough to walk to Thamel and Durbar Square. Most of the shops were closed and the roads were empty of motorized vehicles, there were only bicycle rickshaws and pedestrians. We thoroughly enjoyed the traffic-free streets and pleasant sight seeing. The air, however, was thick with burning tire smoke and the fiery roadblocks had multiplied. On our way back to the hotel that evening, we had to dodge tear gas and running mobs. The good news was that the strike would be over that evening!

Early one morning, we went to Nagarkot, about one hour out of Kathmandu. It was a great relief to get out of the smoggy valley and into the crisp, fresh air in the hills. From our vantage point, we were able to see glimpses of the Himalayas through the clouds. At first, we saw Langtang Lirung. Then the clouds would lift and we’d see other peaks peeping through. Finally, we saw most of the range, just not all at the same time. It was breathtaking to get sudden glimpses as the clouds parted, haloing the crisp, snowy peaks off in the distance, appearing higher on the horizon than expected.